Discover India differently…
We know India a little, since it was the first country we visited during our tour. We spent 15 fantastic days in Kerala: the beauty and diversity of its landscapes, the warm welcome of its people, its astonishing artistic culture, and the wide range of activities truly captivated us. I want to share my first impressions with you.
After this trip, I am convinced that if you are still hesitant about going to India because of the country’s shady reputation, then you should start with Kerala, which, for me, is the most affordable part of this great and captivating country. A state that lives up to its nickname of “God’s Own Country.”
Discovering Kerala, another way
India has a very paradoxical image in the minds of tourists and travelers. This country fascinates as much as it frightens. I was talking about it in the article before my departure, and I know that many of you, despite your curiosity, refuse to go there because of everything you hear. But I can assure you that Kerala will make you appreciate India differently and will surely make you want to explore Kerala & other states of India.
From what I’ve read:
With over 34 million inhabitants, Kerala is one of the richest states of Indian. It is ahead of the rest of the country on virtually every major social issue: Keralans have a better quality of life and have access to levels of healthcare and education almost comparable to those of some Western countries. The state boasts a literacy rate well above the national average (for both men and women) and the highest life expectancy rate in the Indian subcontinent. With its communist political regime, Kerala is one of the most stable states in the country and also one where citizens are most engaged. Regarding religion, the Hindu, Muslim, and Christian communities live in tolerance, and there are very few news stories on this subject in the news. Regarding internal security, Kerala is considered the state with the best law and order.
From what I saw and felt there:
Frankly, even though I traveled in privileged conditions in Kerala, my girlfriend and I never felt unsafe, and this is the feedback we often hear in the accounts of travelers who have been there. Kerala is generally cleaner, poverty is less visible, people behave better, are more welcoming and friendly, you don’t feel like you’re being stared at in crowds, and you experience far fewer requests for services (or scams) or asking for money. This is truly appreciable and also contributes to a certain gentleness of life when you’re there. Comparing my two travel experiences in India, it’s true that the north of the country, as beautiful as it is with all its historical and cultural riches, is perhaps more difficult to navigate for the inexperienced traveler. Another thing that pleased me about the place, especially in a tense global context, was the rather harmonious coexistence of different religions. Indeed, in the same city, you’ll find Hindu temples, mosques, churches, and synagogues side by side, and all believers seem to live in a spirit of mutual tolerance.
Finally, Kerala is a pioneer in the development of responsible tourism, which helps improve the living conditions of local populations and minimize potential ecological or social damage. It’s a pretty good idea. If that doesn’t whet your appetite yet, read on…
The diversity and beauty of the landscapes, the nature
Keep in mind that Kerala means “Land of Coconut Palms” in Malayalam (the main language in the south). And frankly, I don’t think I’ve ever seen so many in one country, despite our many travels. It’s a pleasure to be surrounded by these immense trees that generally grow in countries with tropical climates… And yes, Kerala is a country where the sun reigns supreme: 8 months of sunshine and about 4 months of rain—amazing! In addition to this more than pleasant asset, Kerala boasts a truly diverse and attractive landscape and a more than generous nature.
I’ve already fallen under the spell of the backwaters. These vast networks of canals and rivers that cross the western part of the state are a must-see. They’re beautiful, they’re peaceful, and you can discover the lives of the local people as they drift along the water. It’s worth a short stay on one of the traditional “houseboats,” which will give you a truly magical experience of the country. I will forever remember the magnificent landscapes of the Alleppey region and the sunset we shared during our exploration of Kerala, the first few days.
Kerala also boasts splendid beaches and the transparent waters of the Arabian Sea in the south. In the center, there are lush plains and hills where wide agricultural valleys are beautifully outlined by tea plantations that stretch as far as the eye can see. To the east, the mountains and deep valleys of the Western Ghats offer superb views of the region and will introduce you to dense forests where many rivers originate. The flora and fauna in Kerala are obviously very rich. You will discover an incredible number of plants, spices, majestic ancient trees, and a wide variety of endemic wildlife (leopards, elephants, monkeys, tigers, squirrels, cormorants, etc.) that the many national parks strive to preserve as best they can.
I’d already had some great experiences and met some wonderful people in the north of the country, but it’s true that during this trip, even fleetingly (because I wasn’t in my usual travel and meeting environment), I felt an even warmer welcome from the people of Kerala. Kind looks, smiles, and waves of “hello” to greet you, and a seemingly genuine curiosity from the Keralans, who want to chat with travelers. Interactions seem easier, the people are more peaceful, more educated, and it’s a real pleasure to interact with the locals.
For lovers of images and portraits, you’ll be delighted to know that South Indians seem even more fond of photography than those in the North. But be careful, expect to be photographed too, because the “selfie” craze seems to have reached them too, and they love posing with strangers… We had a good laugh more than once posing with them…
Little anecdotes… I still remember the time I deliberately “got lost” in a temple where I met a Brahmin with whom I became friends. He was curious about my arrival there, and I was curious to know more about the lives of the temple’s monks. I stayed with him for a good hour. He introduced me to everyone and explained, as best he could, the organization of this place of worship. They were preparing the festival celebration for the evening, and while my friends kayaked on the backwaters, I finally took the time to discover a little of life here at my own pace. A special moment, just the way I like them… I also remember meeting some fishermen on one of Marari’s beaches, right next to the luxury hotel where we had stopped to eat. They were repairing their nets in the shade of boat hulls and coconut trees. Alas, I only spent about twenty minutes with them because the bus had to leave, but if I could have, I think I would have spent the whole afternoon, as our first exchanges seemed so mutually sincere.
Activities
There’s no shortage of activities and things to do in Kerala. I’ll come back to this in more detail later, but I can assure you that if you decide to go there, try to spend at least 10 days, or even 15, as there’s so much to do and discover.
For those in need of some rest, you’ll find many splendid beaches in the south (Marari, Kovalam, Varkala, etc.). You can also enjoy the unique, relaxing, and rather luxurious experience of staying on the traditional houseboats that ply the backwaters of Alleppey (article to come). Still on the subject of rest and well-being, a trip to Kerala is also an opportunity to try Ayurvedic treatments that have been healing people for thousands of years, or simply to be introduced to yoga in sumptuous settings.
For animal lovers and children, visiting one of the many national parks to see wild animals in the wild can be a wonderful experience.
For the more athletic, trekking in the Western Ghats is also a must (with several levels of difficulty available). We all enjoyed exploring this UNESCO-listed part of Kerala, and we also loved sleeping in the tents at our camp under the stars in Kolikkumalai. Alternatively, you can also indulge in the Calicut or Wayanad regions, and enjoy fun outdoor activities such as ziplining over a lake, canoeing, kayaking, mountain biking, archery, bamboo rafting, and even try zorbing.
For the curious, you can visit tea plantations near Munnar, and finally discover what all the spices you usually use in your cooking look like in real life and in nature by visiting a spice plantation in Amaravathi. You can also discover the thousand-year-old Edakkal caves, learn more about the history of Kerala through the many museums of the Muziris program or try to understand the life of Keralan artisans and farmers through the Kumarakom responsible tourism program…. For food lovers, some centers offer it as well as hotels. Of course, I won’t go into detail by telling you about all the nice walks and the meetings you could have in the villages, in the markets or in certain cities. It might be worth getting a little lost…
Culture
Arts and culture seem to hold an important place in the lives of Keralans. There are numerous temples and countless Hindu festivals that enliven the villages, streets, and roads throughout the year. If you visit, there’s a good chance you’ll encounter colorful and noisy processions with elephants, musicians, and dancers fervently celebrating their beliefs… Personally, I love them! And above all, don’t hesitate to follow the processions or enter the temples respectfully; it will be an opportunity to immerse yourself a little more in the culture and lives of the locals.
Besides religion, traditional arts and dance theater are an integral part of Kerala’s identity. The locals are proud of them, respect them, and some work diligently to preserve them. I’m telling you this because we had the chance to visit Kerala’s most famous art and culture school: Keralam Kalamandalam. We even had a small private performance during which one of the teachers shared several forms of these arts with us and explained them to us. I won’t say that Kathakali, Mohiniyattam, or Bharatanatyam no longer hold any secrets for us, but honestly, the experience was truly interesting. These very specific and precise arts are surprising and fascinating, but also very beautiful to watch. You may not have the chance to visit the school like we did, but I really recommend you try to attend a performance of Koothu, Kathakali, or Kuchipudi… These theaters are quite common, and some nice hotels will offer them. You won’t regret it!
The Food
To be completely honest, the food wasn’t necessarily the thing that thrilled me the most in Kerala, as I’m really not a fan of spicy dishes. That said, I have to be fair, and while I have a baby’s palate that abhors spices, I’m also no “master of good taste,” so I’m not going to tell you that the food isn’t good in Kerala. On the contrary, most of my fellow travelers loved the variety of dishes on offer (vegetarian or not) and frantically dived into tasting everything offered to us during these 15 days: Mattar paneer, Parrippun, Cabbage thoran, Sambar, Beef Goulash, Mutton Coconut Fry, Vellari Moru curry, Avial, Palada payasam, and many more.
I have a sensitive palate, but still, when I travel I make an effort, so I tried quite a few dishes and frankly, I liked some of them… Well, unfortunately, I don’t remember the names anymore… Finally, we were also lucky enough to taste and eat by hand the traditional Keralan festive meal: the Sadya. This meal, which is served on a banana leaf, really appealed to me both for its composition and its presentation…
Luxury Hotels
For those who know us, we usually travel backpacker style. And during this trip in Kerala, we were treated like royalty in the most beautiful resorts in the state. (One of the hotels had hosted Prince Charles for his 65th birthday and another hosted the Indian President the day after our departure.)
Magnificent, astonishing, or downright unusual hotels, always with attentive and friendly staff… A pleasure.
So, while we usually share our discoveries of small, affordable hotels, guesthouses, and youth hostels, in a future article, I’ll share with you the amazing hotels I’ve fallen in love with.
Remember, for the price of an average hotel on the French Riviera, you can enjoy a luxurious experience in Kerala…
